Circus Circus

There’s a million things to do in Vegas. Besides the obvious gambling—there’s live entertainment, helicopter tours, golf, world-class dining, strip clubs, museums, mini golf themed to the band KISS, amusement rides, and plenty of other attractions to fill the pages of hotel coupon books. However, if you had asked me what was the one thing I needed to do on a visit in the summer of 2020, I would’ve said: photograph Circus Circus and The Adventuredome.

*The Canyon Blaster roller coaster, built by Arrow Dynamics in 1993. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

Why? Well, it feels a bit hard to articulate, but it could come down to something like this: I was far more interested in the design of the casino’s roller coaster than I was in riding it, just as I was far more interested in the resort’s history than staying at it.

*Main entrance and parking lot. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

Circus Circus could be described as an anomaly on the Vegas Strip. In visual appearance, it’s a time capsule from a period that’s now seen as somewhat passé. The place is one of the few casinos to still feature a parking lot by the front entrance and even with multiple towers, it now finds itself in the shadow of cranes building more modern and upscale resorts. Downtown Vegas is undergoing a resurgence, seeing its first major construction in decades, and The Strip seems to have spent the last several years reorienting itself back to Vegas’ adult-themed reputation rather than the family-friendly marketing slogans of the 90s. Sitting between both of these shifts: Circus Circus with its live big top acts and iconic light up clown sign.

*The under construction Resorts World towering over Circus Circus’ Adventuredome in August 2020. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

I don’t mean to insult the resort, by all accounts it’s a good option for families or large groups looking to save money. I’m also not someone who considers themselves to be highbrow. I only stayed at a nicer resort because we found a good deal online. All that being said, though, reviews of the Circus Circus accommodations are mixed—typically featuring tales of rooms still lingering with decades old cigarette smoke and drab carpet. I find the place fascinating from its history to its theme to its presence in the modern Vegas. And behind all of it? There’s a giant, fuchsia-tinted glass box: an indoor amusement park that feels like stepping back in time to peak mall culture. It’s wonderful and replete with a classic steel coaster that corkscrews through fake rocks—the signature attraction of a complex linked by the fading pastel colors of a once-futuristic looking tramway.

*Tramway. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

*Resort tower and closed Festival Grounds bungee structure. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

But all of that is a bit hard to describe to a security guard who’s wondering why you’re photographing the resort, making detailed shots of buildings adorned with lightbulbs and gold trim. The multiple rent-a-cops cited concerns over terrorism, but the real threat is probably from developers who might be eying the land for new construction. Travis and I were neither, just two photographers wanting to document this gaudy, unique relic of Vegas culture. We weren’t a threat to the facility, nor were we interested in dining at a restaurant themed to the past-his-prime singer of the past-their-prime Mötley Crüe. We just wanted to check things out.

*The complex’s original building. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

*The only remaining statue in front of Circus Circus. Several pieces designed by the iconic, local artist known as Montyne once donned the property and were seen as tourist landmarks. Digital.*

Circus Circus traces its roots back to the late 60s. Despite originally being built solely as a casino and lacking a hotel, the facility has always been oriented towards families. Adults could gamble on the first floor while the second floor included games for children.

Mob connections allowed the casino to finance their first hotel and over the years, the complex grew to include three lodging towers, a motel complex, and even an RV campground. Circus Circus quickly became one of Vegas’s most well-known casinos, a visual landmark along the Strip and a place that could cater to a diverse group of visitors.

*Circus Circus Manor Motor Lodge. Pentax K1000 + Kodak Portra 400.*

*Olympus Stylus 170 with Kodak Gold 200.*

In 1993, Grand Slam Canyon opened up along the backside of the property—a fully enclosed, air-conditioned amusement park featuring a centerpiece roller coaster with four inversions. Now known as the Adventuredome, the park was constructed during a concerted effort to market Las Vegas tourism at visiting families, not just visiting gamblers. Today, the park has grown to feature even more rides and new attractions, still crowded with families as we saw during our time there.

*Outside of the Adventuredome, formerly “Grand Slam Canyon.” Digital.*

Regrettably, we never stopped back to photograph the resort at night when its bright bulbs shine against the setting sun, but that scene still exists. Pieces of concrete are crumbling off the faux circus tent and the resort towers echo the design trends of different eras, but the whole place has a certain kitschy charm to it that represents the Vegas known to outsiders of a certain age and cultural persuasion. This was the place you’d see on television and in travel magazines.

The Great Recession nixed some past renovation plans, new owners have come and gone, and future plans have been touted—but with an economy and industry upturned by a global pandemic, who knows what will come next for Circus Circus.

The above story is Part 2 (of 7) in a series from a trip out west.

The Rest of Vegas: Summer 2020

Las Vegas: Wings of Gold